Journal · Skin

A doctor’s guide to a good skincare routine: vitamin C, SPF and vitamin A

The skincare aisle can be overwhelming, but a routine that really works for most people is surprisingly simple. In my practice I recommend three core steps: vitamin C and sunscreen in the morning, and vitamin A at night. Get these right and you’ve covered the biggest causes of visible skin ageing, from sun damage to dullness and fine lines.

This guide explains what each step does, how to build your morning and evening routine, how to start vitamin A without irritation, and how a good routine helps you get the most from treatments such as peels, dermaroller skin needling and Profhilo.

Your morning skincare routine

Your morning routine is all about protection. It takes less than five minutes.

1. Cleanse. A gentle cleanser, or simply lukewarm water if your skin is dry or sensitive.
2. Vitamin C serum. Apply a few drops to dry skin and let it absorb for a minute.
3. Moisturiser, if you need it. Many people with oily skin can skip this and go straight to SPF.
4. Broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher, every day, all year round, as the last step before make-up.

Tip: Vitamin C is easily damaged by light and air. Keep it in its box, close the lid tightly, and choose a well-formulated, stabilised product.

How to start vitamin A (retinol) without irritation

Vitamin A is the step people most often get wrong, usually by starting too strong or too often. The aim is to build up slowly so your skin can adapt.

• Start low. Begin with a gentle, low-strength retinol or retinal.
• Go slow. Use it two or three nights a week for the first few weeks, then increase to every night if your skin is comfortable.
• Expect an adjustment period. Mild dryness, flaking or tingling in the first few weeks is common. If it’s uncomfortable, use it less often and moisturise well.
• Step up gradually. Once your skin is used to it, you can move to a stronger product for better results.
• Wear SPF every day. Vitamin A makes your skin more sensitive to the sun.

Important: Don’t use vitamin A products if you are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding. If you have a skin condition such as eczema or rosacea, ask for advice before starting.

Common skincare mistakes

• Using too many active ingredients at once. Layering acids, retinol and strong serums together often leads to irritation. Keep it simple.
• Giving up too soon. Skin renews itself roughly every month, so give any new routine 8 to 12 weeks before judging it.
• Skipping SPF on grey days. UVA doesn’t take a day off.
• Over-cleansing or scrubbing. Harsh scrubs and foaming cleansers can damage the skin barrier and cause dryness and sensitivity.
• Forgetting your neck and hands. They show the signs of ageing too.

Skin also reflects how you live. Good sleep, a balanced diet and not smoking all make a visible difference. Read more in my guides to sleep and stress and healthy recipes.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best skincare routine for anti-ageing?

For most people, vitamin C and a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ in the morning and vitamin A at night, alongside a gentle cleanser and moisturiser. It’s simple, evidence-based and easy to keep up.

Can I use vitamin C and vitamin A together?

Yes, but at different times of day. Vitamin C works best in the morning under sunscreen, and vitamin A at night because it makes skin more sensitive to sunlight.

What’s the difference between retinol and retinal?

Both are forms of vitamin A. The skin converts retinol into retinal and then into the active form, so retinal is one step closer and works more quickly. Retinol is often a gentler place to start.

At what age should I start using retinol?

Many people start in their mid-20s to 30s, but it’s never too late. Women in their 40s and 50s often see real improvements in texture and fine lines.

Do I need sunscreen in winter in the UK?

Yes. UVA levels are lower in winter but still present every day, and they’re the rays most linked to skin ageing. Daily SPF is the habit that makes the biggest long-term difference.

How long until I see results?

Vitamin C can brighten skin within a few weeks. Vitamin A takes longer, usually around 8 to 12 weeks for visible changes in texture and fine lines, with continued improvement over months.